Some "lessons learned" on paper modeling based on Rob Ive's patterns. He has a fair number of free ones, and he also has models on the Brother paper craft site but most of those are static. There are a few YouTube "hacks" showing possibility of combining the mechanisms with other art work/characters.

1. Tools.
   1. Get a plastic box to throw it all in so it can be set aside.
   2. Use scissors for the big stuff, get out the hobby cutter, Exacto etc., for the details.
   3. When the blade dulls, replace it. They can be re-honed if desired.
   4. Find/make something to roll the tubes used as axles around. I cut a long, 1-1/2",  slot in a 1/4" dowel.
   5. Occasionally it can be a pain to hold a piece firm without mashing it. Small spring clothes pins are just the right size to hold a lot of these pieces while the glue dries.
   6. Use a steel rule. Being frugal, I put on my own cork from shelf lining. The raised rule makes it easier to guide a blade and the cork makes it slip resistant.
   7. Get an old plastic card, or a purpose made, glue spreader. Really helps with putting on just a couple of drops and spreading it out. Easy to add more glue, tough to remove excess without getting it where it's not wanted.
   8. I have used, in the US from the $1 store, cleaned out nail polish bottle & brush for glue. Can be a PIA to get the glue in the bottle, but the brush can be handy.
   9. It pays to print out the uncolored one for rehearsal. You won't feel as bad if you have to try again. Nice part is it's only paper and time.
   10. For the long pieces, I sometimes resort to hemostats with a 2-1/2' jaw.
   11. All the axles go through holes. Consider a paper punch, check for the proper hole size, or cheap set of leather punches. I've not had great success cutting the things out.
   12. A cutting mat is very nice. Not much bigger than the paper is all that's needed.
2. Techniques
   1. When you download a Rob Ives pattern, the file name won't say "Pattern." I always add that. Rob used to provide pdf instructions, and they would have a similar name and it's easy to confuse the pattern with the instructions. 
   2. Now most of the instructions for Rob's models are a web page. Use your browser tools to print the instructions to a pdf. I use FireFox and it will print a "simplified" version of the page. Works 90% of the time.Save the file with the same name as the pattern with "Instructions" as a suffix. I do this on a tablet so i can just have both files open. Set the table display time-out for a long period of time. Inevitably it will time and go dark out when you are gluing and want to double check something 1st.
   3. Crease the folds before cutting out the pieces.
   4. Cut out all the pieces so you can review the order with the assembly pictures. Not all of Rob's items will have the label where it will easily stay attached after cutting, so you may need to refer back to the pdf.
   5. Look very, very, very closely at Rob's pictures. There are generally at least two things, like what direction to fold something regardless of the hill/valley markings, that need to be reviewed before applying glue.
   6. It's easy to get ahead of the pictures thinking "Oh, I'll just glue this up too." Don't do it.
   7. Rob often uses two different types of triangular folds to re-enforce openings or boxes. Double check the picture for which way it gets folded.
   8. Keep large scrap handy to wipe excess glue on.
   9. Don't get real heavy paper. Not needed and some printers aren't happy with it. ~65# seems good.

Hi Jim,

What is its purpose ? For your maintenance attention, or are you thinking to rent it on hourly basis ?

Gus

On 11 Jun 2020, at 12:44 am, Jim Coffee <jim@...> wrote:

Hi Gus...

Not yet...I just received an 'hour meter' that I am in the process of installing.  Then I'm going to take it out and try to market it.

Cheers

-Jim-

On Tue, 9 Jun 2020 at 21:23, Gus <klekner@...> wrote:

Wish you luck with your product display. Is it in operation at a commercial establishment ?

Gus

Hi Jim,

I think a hand crank involves the observer more than motorised, so it will be manual. Though, in this case, given the size of the whole, it might be beneficial to stand back. Thanks for the question, I will keep the perspective in mind.

Hard to know how long it will take, there is so much inventing to do. My guess would be months, probably six at best.

Be safe,

Gus

On 11 Jun 2020, at 12:43 am, Jim Coffee <jim@...> wrote:

Hi Gus...

Thanks for posting.  I got out my converting calculator and see that this figure will be 31" high.  Very impressive.

I like the way that you have carved the head...nice shape and proportions and detail.  Good job.

Please do keep posting your progress.  These builds are very interesting.

Hand crank or motor?  What is your rough estimate for completion (month, year)?

Cheers

-Jim-

On Tue, 9 Jun 2020 at 21:16, Gus <klekner@...> wrote:

A politician is standing in front of the usual flag background, and an impressive foyer, behind an equally impressive lectern. He is delivering a message, as they tend to do. At the end, something happens, which I will keep secret until completion, no need to spoil a surprise.
The figure is 800mm tall, has eyes which turn side to side, up/down, the head turns, nods up, down, the arms move and he body turns from the waist and bows. All is dependant upon success of managing to achieve all of that.......
The first part is the carving of the head, from a 90x90 mm block of Huon Pine, an Australian semi softwood which holds small details very well. It was some 28 hours to completion.



The interior was carved out to make room for the eye mechanism, which is the next part to fabricate. That will be added to this post as the process continues.



Regards, keep safe !
Gus

Attachments:

• Carved Head.jpg
• Head interior.jpg

I hesitate to call this anything of my own, standing on the shoulders of giants type of thing. Very political, I do not want to debate, just using my freedom of expression. But for others who struggle with "talent" maybe it will provide some inspiration. Rob has many, many free templates, and modeling in paper is cheap LOL and mistakes easily replaced. So until the real inspiration hits . . .

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBJ0HUEJRX6/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Ron

I hesitate to call this anything of my own, standing on the shoulders of giants type of thing. Very political, I do not want to debate, just using my freedom of expression. But for others who struggle with "talent" maybe it will provide some inspiration. Rob has many, many free templates, and modeling in paper is cheap LOL and mistakes easily replaced. So until the real inspiration hits . . .

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBJ0HUEJRX6/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Ron

Hi Everyone,

 

A quick update on this for those that are interested.

 

Spent quite a bit of time searching (and getting sidetracked - google patents database throws up all sorts of great stuff!), and have come to the conclusion that this must be using a pantograph with a driven magnetic follower (along the lines suggested by Kim and Dominique).

 

I searched for "magnetic wheel toy" and found that the "Whee-lo" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whee-lo was around in 1953, which is encouraging as it indicates that toys were using magnets pre-1960. The other interesting bit is that it was subtitled "The Magnetic Walking Wheel" - which is exactly what we want here.

 

So then, how do we get the wheel to 'walk' around the animal shape? More searching and I found patent US2651140 which whilst the magnet there isn't used for the same purpose, the toy does use a pantograph AND has a (manual) drive mechanism from the centre to the end of the arm (used for rotating a car via the magnet).

 

For Teddy we can use a similar approach to drive the magnetic follower in the central bearing:

I've ordered a cylindrical magnet to use as the follower, and I'm going to start experimenting with various drive transmissions to see what works best.

 

Would still be good to know for sure how the original works, but at least I've got an approach that *might* work.

 

Best wishes,

Craig

 

Wish you luck with your product display. Is it in operation at a commercial establishment ?

Gus

A politician is standing in front of the usual flag background, and an impressive foyer, behind an equally impressive lectern. He is delivering a message, as they tend to do. At the end, something happens, which I will keep secret until completion, no need to spoil a surprise.
The figure is 800mm tall, has eyes which turn side to side, up/down, the head turns, nods up, down, the arms move and he body turns from the waist and bows. All is dependant upon success of managing to achieve all of that.......
The first part is the carving of the head, from a 90x90 mm block of Huon Pine, an Australian semi softwood which holds small details very well. It was some 28 hours to completion.



The interior was carved out to make room for the eye mechanism, which is the next part to fabricate. That will be added to this post as the process continues.



Regards, keep safe !
Gus